What exactly is slugging?
Basically, it’s applying your regular nighttime skin care products, then applying a thick, oil-based emollient such as petroleum jelly as a final layer to make a seal and keep all your skin care ingredients in place. Petroleum jelly is not absorbed by the skin, so it creates a barrier to moisture loss for long-lasting effects.
What’s important about having a barrier?
The skin has many layers. If you think of it as a cake, the barrier is like the frosting. The top layer of your skin is called the epidermis, and it controls our water loss. Under the epidermis is the “cakey” part, or dermis. It’s where our blood vessels and nerves are, and it’s the structure that gives skin its elasticity and turgor. The bottom layer is fat, and underneath that is muscle.
The barrier formed by the epidermis is almost like a brick wall. It allows the passage of some ingredients through it but also leaving outward from the skin. One of the most important losses that we have, especially in dry climates such as Colorado, is water loss. So, we use petroleum jelly to create a barrier – a layer on top of the epidermis, preventing water loss.
What are the benefits of slugging?
The major benefit is intense hydration and moisture retention due to the barrier. In general, hydrated skin looks better and is less prone to irritation. The barrier can also help repair your skin overnight by ensuring the serums and other active ingredients applied during your nighttime routine stay on.
Are all emollients created equally?
I don’t know that there’s a lot of science behind using one brand of emollient versus another. But it’s important to check the ingredients. For example, many people choose to use petroleum jelly for slugging. There’s a petroleum jelly-based product that also includes an ingredient called lanolin, which is a well-known allergen that can cause skin irritation for many people.
Is slugging an option for everyone?
Overall, slugging is an option as long as you’re tolerating it well. If you’re curious, it’s worth trying. People that benefit most are those who live in dry climates or who have dry skin. If your skin type is oily, you may not like the feeling of having a thick, occlusive emollient on your face. It won’t directly cause acne, but the sensation isn’t for everyone. If your skin is already dry and you want to do what you can to keep the moisture in, you may be a good candidate for slugging with an occlusive agent.
How do you get started slugging?
If you’d like to try slugging, remove all your makeup and start with a clean, dry face. If you use serums or prescription treatments, start by applying the thinnest first, letting it dry, and then adding the next, thicker treatment. At the end, apply an occlusive layer to seal everything in.
How often should someone slug?
Slugging can be done once or twice a week. You don’t need to slug daily. You may want to slug more frequently when your skin is extra dry or in the winter when it’s cold and dry. It’s important not to overdo it, especially if you are using active ingredients that could irritate your skin, as slugging will keep them on your skin longer.
Is slugging just for your face?
Yes. Slugging is meant to seal the active ingredients you frequently apply to your face during your skin care routine. But you can use petroleum jelly-based products as an occlusive for your body, to seal moisture, especially when your skin is dry.
What precautions do you recommend when adding slugging to your skin care routine?
I wouldn’t start slugging all over your face to begin with – try slugging a small area on the side of your neck as a patch test to see if your skin feels itchy or irritated the next day. If it’s OK on your neck, do a small test on your cheekbone, and take a few days to see if there’s any irritation. If your two test patches are well-tolerated, you may try slugging on your whole face.
Avoid the eye area when slugging, no matter what your skin type. Using petroleum jelly directly around the eyelids can produce milia – small, white, pearly bumps that can look like pimples. They’re benign, and they eventually go away but they can be distressing to people.
Also, consider the environment you live in as well as the season. Here in Colorado, it’s really dry. But if you go to a place that’s hot and humid, slugging might feel uncomfortable and too heavy on your skin.
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Hey Doc, One Last Question: Do Pimple Patches Work?
Pimple patches are gaining in popularity. But do they actually work?
Many major skin care brands have introduced pimple patches – small, often circular adhesive patches covered with a hydrocolloid material to aid in healing pimples.
“In my opinion, the biggest advantage of pimple patches is that they discourage people from picking at their inflamed lesions. This is important because when someone uses a patch, they are less likely to touch or pop the pimple,” Torres-Zegarra said.
Whether the patch itself heals acne is debatable.
“If you have a lot of inflamed lesions, particularly those that are painful, pimple patches likely won’t make a significant difference since they work on the surface. Acne originates deeper, in the dermis, where the oil glands and hair follicles meet. As a healing product for acne, I’m not sure the patch does all it’s marketed to do,” Torres-Zegarra said.
Bottom line? Those who tend to pick or touch their pimples may benefit from using a pimple patch as it can provide a protective layer to avoid further irritation. If you have acne, it is best to seek care by a dermatologist, to control your flare and prevent permanent acne marks and scarring.
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